A Paradise Found, Puerto Rico's Treasures Go Well Beyond Just Golf (Though That's Pretty Good, Too.)

If you haven't thought of the U.S. territory for a getaway, think again. From beaches to a rainforest to golf, a Puerto Rico itinerary can fill up fast.

Perhaps heaven on earth might not exist but if it did, Puerto Rico, with its balmy climate, local hospitality, and Boricua spirit of national pride, comes awfully close. Unsolicited travel praise is uncommon, but priceless if it’s where you’re about to go. When airport shuttle bus driver Donnie learned I was bound for Puerto Rico, he grinned. “I was there for four days with no itinerary … stayed at a B&B, rode their bike, went to El Yunque Rainforest, a ton of beaches, and ate the street food. It was super and I’d go again!”

Later, the airport gate agent saw my final destination and said, “I really miss the food. You MUST try mofongo; there are so many great versions of that plantain dish.” Inputting what I thought was important airline information, she turned her computer to show some examples.

Two glowing reviews about "La Isla del Encanto" … and I hadn’t even left the airport.

Ironically, New World explorer Christopher Columbus didn’t think much of the land mass when he sort of "discovered" it, long after the Taino tribe had already been there. Staying only two days, he nevertheless claimed the colony for Spain, only to be lost after the Spanish-American War. Juan Ponce de Leon also stumbled upon the island and a fortune of gold in the rivers, hence the name, "rich port city." This very wealthy man may have missed locating the Fountain of Youth, but certainly established the beginning of something better.

Surrounded by 300 miles of coastline filled with nature’s treasures, about 3.2 million people call Puerto Rico home. Many Americans forget about this U.S. territory, a literal "Spanglish" paradise in their own backyard, but in 2022, 5.2 million visitors propelled this gorgeous Caribbean island into a top-10 tourist destination.

What’s not to like? With average year-round temperatures between 70-80 degrees, natural wonders like 28,000-acre El Yunque (the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest system), dozens of waterfalls, rivers, hundreds of animal species, coqui tree frogs (which actually do "rain" from the sky when hunted), ruins, the western hemisphere’s largest cave network with an estimated 800 yet to be uncovered, sapphire bays where kayaking under the new moon reveals ethereal bioluminescent underwater sea life ... and, well, if you can’t find something to do, you’re not trying hard enough.

Paddling under the stars in Mosquito Bay in the island of Vieques / Courtesy Discover Puerto Rico

Old San Juan once headquartered the Spanish Inquisition but things have improved; two of the oldest churches in the U.S. remain … and the Vatican loves Puerto Rican coffee. Art galleries, culture, and fine dining flourish alongside the Boricuas, Taino, and an African state of mind which is also reflected in cuisines that are as familiar, flavorful and simple as they are diverse and complex. Posh seaside resorts are everywhere, unsurprising considering hundreds of beaches circle the 30-mile-long island.

For the value-conscious, B&Bs, street food staples like mofongo and pionones can be found at pop-ups or chinchorros (food stands). Hop on a "publico" bus to see where it takes you. Pina coladas were invented here and remain the national drink along with mojitos and other rum-based cocktails. Or tour Casa Bacardi, the largest rum distillery in the world, across the bay in Old San Juan.

And then, there’s golf.

For 15 years, PGA Tour players have looked forward to the popular Puerto Rico Open contested last week at the Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Championship course. PGA Tour and Champions great Tom Kite used stunning vistas to create the Championship and the International courses on the northeast end of the island with the rainforest serving as backdrop. This 200-acre family-friendly resort has oceanfront suites, a lagoon pool, on-site spa and other amenities.

Two pro-ams held on Wednesday prior to this year's event gave golf fans a chance to play alongside tour players. My pros, Martin Trainer, a past champion, and Sweden’s Vincent Norrman—who finished tied for 21st—were delightful, shepherding us to an 18-under team score. I’d be remiss not to mention playing partner Erik "Cubano" Calvino, who publishes Cigar Snob magazine. Though no "snob," our arma secreta (secret weapon) happily played his best golf ever. Everyone loved the superbly conditioned course. 

For mere mortals, an outstanding collection of 16 other scenic courses crafted by several noted architects dot the landscape and two more are currently under construction for this golf-enthusiastic island. Here’s a quick tour for the budget-conscious: short but sweet Rio Bayamon GC provides new airport arrivals with a nearby and action-packed course plus driving range. On the northwestern coast, Punta Borinquen GC plays along a coastal promontory and was built on a former Air Force base. Heading southeast, legendary PGA Tour professional and local swashbuckler Chi Chi Rodriguez crafted El Legado on 285 acres of the central Cordillera mountains on the southeast, or Caribbean, side of the island. In the eastern interior, Caguas Golf & CC sports a challenging back nine after parkland-style front nine. These courses all range from $30-$65.

For those who wish to splurge, the gorgeously expansive El Conquistador Resort in Fajardo perches high above the Atlantic Ocean and combines modern comforts with stunning views. Ballyhoo dockside offers traditional fare with Puerto Rican favorites like pork chops, skirt steak, and fresh seafood—and stellar Mojitos. Stay at the newly renovated marina casitas and watch the sun rise over Palomino, their private island where the ferry transports guests on the hour. Playing the award-winning Arthur Hills design is much like opening up several Christmas presents: you can’t wait to see what surprise is next. Full of dramatic elevation changes, rolling fairways and views of both the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea, the course is surprisingly uncrowded with only a glimpse of other foursomes.

El Conquistador Resort is high above the ocean with stunning views :: Janina Jacobs/SI

Also on the northeast coast, golden-amber sands align with turquoise waters amidst a one-mile secluded beach at the idyllic and newly renovated Wyndham Grand Rio Mar Puerto Rico Golf and Beach Resort, managed by Troon Golf. Five hundred acres separates you from the real world. Choose from nine restaurants and lounges, the Mandara Spa, and casino action and, yes, two golf courses. World-renowned architects Tom and George Fazio and Greg Norman fashioned natural routings around oceanfront, rainforest and tropical backdrops. Roots Coastal Kitchen offers outstanding casual dining. The menu, with tasty appetizers of conch fritters, empanadas, the Mezze vegetarian platter—and even deviled eggs—was created by Food Network Top Chef finalists Jeff McInnis and Janine Booth in collaboration with Executive Chef Ramone Carrillo. Main course favorites are swordfish, wood-fired pizzas, and grilled octopus. 

If old-school traditional elegance is your preference, San Juan’s Condado Vanderbilt hotel epitomizes Spanish Revival architecture and provides guests with luxurious interiors and posh amenities, circa 1920, catering to sophisticated travelers who seek out the best of the best. One guest remarked, “it’s like walking onboard the Titanic … pre-iceberg.” The prix-fixe dinner with wine pairing is constantly evolving and is decidedly the most popular offering at its premier restaurant 1919, named for the year the hotel opened. This evening’s features were sushi trio, mahi with white beans and pesto, a succulent Delmonico and chocolate lava cake with coconut ice cream. Michelin star-rated Executive Chef Juan Jose Cuevas, who embraces contemporary local farm-to-table social consciousness along with exquisite taste, comes out to personally greet guests.

Sunrise from the Condado Vanderbilt hotel :: Janina Jacobs/SI

The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort & Golf Club is truly where our friend Ponce should have gone to find eternal youth. Lush, lavish, and secluded with abundant tropical foliage and Botera sculptures throughout almost 500 acres, this Audubon Gold-certified golf course and resort—a rarity—offers respite from everything. Housing goats, a dog sanctuary, orchids, plant and herb gardens, it is family friendly with water sports, kayaking, fishing and 2.5 miles of beachfront.

Its immaculately conditioned golf course is extremely playable, yet provides enough risk and reward for the more advanced player. Robert Trent Jones Jr.’s design navigates between ponds, the Espiritu Santo River and ends with two oceanfront holes. Even the practice range is special: course personnel will set up your personal TrackMan station. Afterward, enjoy local ceviche or tostones and an excellent pina colada—chilled dark rum and pineapple frothing with thick coconut milk—at Seagrapes, poolside.

The St. Regis Bahia Beach Golf Resort / Courtesy Discover Puerto Rico

Recently, Cigar Snob magazine, Davidoff Cigars, and Angel’s Envy bourbon sponsored a tasting event at Casa de Montecristo, a 400-year old iconic structure in Old San Juan, which features a large selection of premium and exclusive brands and blends for the cigar connoisseur. Cigar and bourbon tastings are becoming more popular and the Condado Vanderbilt has a lounge dedicated exclusively for this. 

Good news for the budget: In May, non-stop air service from some major cities will be available via Spirit and Frontier Airlines with fares from $59-79 one way. The dollar works just fine here. Best of all, no passport or visa is needed, save for TSA.

Adventure-plus: On the flight from San Juan, Pennsylvania National Guard member Kristina Rodriguez and her son were my seatmates, returning from Utuado, the island’s dense and remote mountainous interior covering 115 square miles and the birthplace of her Taino father, Israel. Adventurous from the beginning, with white-knuckle driving along rugged, fall-off cliffs, narrow washed out-roads (actually horse trails) her arduous journey inland led to the most breathtaking scenery above the clouds, overlooking thick vegetation. There, she discovered Sandra Farms Coffee, which produces authentically grown, cultivated, and roasted beans and the best chocolate she’d ever eaten. When Rodriguez and her son ventured toward the beaches and rock walls below, a native woman warned of terrific wind gusts which can blow unsuspecting tourists off seaside rocks, tossing them into dangerous rip currents from which there is no return. Dad Israel provided some fatherly advice, which is smart for us all: if a local tells you something, listen!

One more item: Do take the spirit of Boricua with you. I certainly needed it flying into Detroit as we landed during a winter snowstorm with whiteout and icy conditions. Major thanks to those two pilots on American Airlines Flight 2376, you were awesome.