Understanding Speed Climbing in the 2024 Paris Olympics

Learn about speed climbing and what to expect from its appearance in the 2024 Paris Olympics.

Aug 4, 2021; Tokyo, Japan; (L-R) Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) and Jessica Pilz (AUT) participate in speed qualification during the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Summer Games at Aomi Urban Sports Park. Mandatory Credit: Geoff Burke-USA TODAY Sports / Geoff Burke-USA TODAY Sports

With climbing playing a role in the Olympics, more people are being introduced to the sport. Included in the 2024 Paris Olympics are 3 disciplines of climbing: bouldering, lead, and speed. Speed climbing requires explosive movements and outstanding hand-eye coordination. Take a look at what these athletes are up against.

The Wall

The Olympic speed climbing wall is 15-meters high and has a 5-degree overhang. There are two routes, both identical, on the wall for one-on-one competition. The goal is to reach the top of the wall and hit the buzzer in the fastest amount of time.

Unlike bouldering and lead, in each speed climbing competition, the routes are always the same. As a result, the athletes can memorize route and train to increase their performance on the speed wall.

The starting position for each athlete includes one foot on the plate to detect false starts and one foot on the wall. On the third beep, athletes may begin climbing. Each athlete is attached to an individual rope for safety purposes.

How a Climber Wins

During the previous Olympic Games, climbers were expected to compete in a single combined event for all 3 disciplines. This year, the formatting has changed. Speed climbing is now a separate event and bouldering and lead climbing will carry on as a combined event. Given how different these disciplines are, the new format has allowed climbers to focus on their preferred skill.

In the beginning round, each climber has the opportunity to climb the route twice. The fastest of the two times will be used. Once the competition reaches the elimination rounds, the athletes will be ranked based on their times and will begin racing against each other. The winner of the pair moves on to the next round. At this point, climbers face quarterfinals, semifinals, and medal finals as eliminations continue. At semifinals, the winners will compete in the gold-medal final while those who do not win will compete in the bronze-medal competition.

Final Notes

Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, Sam Watson, Zachary Hammer will be representing the USA in the speed category this year. As you venture into the climbing world while watching the Paris Olympics, take note of the differences between each of the three disciplines.