A Winter Attempt on the Treacherous Lho La - West Ridge of Mt. Everest

Jost Kobusch of Germany just launched his third winter attempt on the extreme Lho La Route via the West Ridge - Hornbein Couloir on Everest.

Jost Kobusch / Jost Kobusch

Winter Climbing on Mt. Everest

With the Solstice on December 21st, the official winter climbing season launched in the Himalayas, and Jost Kobusch began his winter assault on Mt. Everest’s difficult Lho La Route. Kris Annapurna reported in an Article for ExplorersWeb that Jost Kobusch of Germany will commence his climb just after the solstice - the official start of winter. This attempt marks Kobusch’s third winter attempt via the Lho La – the West Ridge – Hornbein Couloir on Mt. Everest.

Jost Kobusch on the West Ridge of Mt. Everest / Daniel Hug/terragraphy

Iconic Mt. Everest, the highest mountain in the world, stands 29,029 feet. Located in the Himalayas on the Nepal-Tibet border, its local names "Sagarmatha" in Nepali and "Chomolungma" in Tibetan, both translate to "Mother of the Universe". As the highest mountain in Asia, Everest represents the crown jewel of the coveted Seven Summits – the highest mountain on each of the seven continents. The mountain's summit remained elusive until 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa from Nepal, successfully reached the peak via the south side from Nepal (Southeast Ridge).

Two routes up Mt. Everest remain the most traveled: The South Col route starting from Nepal, and the Northeast Ridge Standard, or The North Col route, starting from Tibet. A more extreme route, the Lho La on the West Ridge of Everest presents a completely different challenge – especially during the winter.

Climbing the Lho La Route on the West Ridge of Mount Everest

The Lho La Route begins from the Lho La Pass, located at approximately 19,685 feet, and progresses up the steep and exposed West Ridge of Mt. Everest. The pass itself serves as a natural border between Nepal and Tibet, and historically, served as a crucial trade route for the region. The climb up the West Ridge involves traversing intricate terrain, including ice cliffs, sharp ridges, and significant rock-climbing sections.

The Lho La West Ridge Route / Jost Kobusch

The West Ridge gained fame in 1963 when an American expedition led by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein successfully climbed it alpine-style. Their groundbreaking achievement marked the first ascent via the West Ridge and the first traverse of Everest, as they descended via the South Col. This daring feat remains one of the most remarkable climbs in Everest, and climbing, history.

The Lho La Route on Mount Everest’s historic West Ridge presents a challenging route that offers an alternative to the more frequented South Col and North Col routes. Renowned for its technical difficulty and extreme dangers, this route demands meticulous preparation and attention. The route starts with the treacherous Lho La, a col on the border of between Nepal and Chine north of the Western Cwm, and the lowest point of the West Ridge at 19,705 feet.

Kobusch experienced the degree of difficultly climbing the Lho La on his first winter attempt, but feels more prepared for the ultra extreme conditions this year. ”I know myself and the route much better,” he admitted. Winter climbing, solo, drives Kobusch – an impressive rarity in the world of mountaineering. He wrote in his Ich Oben Allein (“Me, Above and Solo”): ”Being solo also means being emotionally on your own. Because there is usually no one who can help you in an emergency. On your own, mistakes are taboo…[But] what scares others means freedom to me. I’m not responsible for anyone, and I alone deal with my faults. I can make any decision without having to justify myself to others. It’s all in my hands.”

Why Climb Mt. Everest?

The history of climbing this giant traces back to the early 20th century. Sir George Mallory, remembered for his exploratory expeditions to the Himalayas in the 1920s. In 1924, Mallory partnered with Andrew “Sandy” Irvine to attempt Mt. Everest via the North side from Tibet. The pair never returned from their attempt sparking a decades-long debate on whether they reached the summit or not. Prior to his attempt, Mallory famously responded to the question “Why do you want to climb Mt. Everest?” with “Because it's there.” (Related Article)