Alarming Number of Helicopter Rescues on Ama Dablam in the Himalayas

Ama Dablam in the Himalayas, 22,349 feet, has seen an alarming number of helicopter rescues this season.

Rainer Bleek on Unsplash

Ama Dablam, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas," presents one of the most iconic and visually striking peaks in the world of mountaineering. Located in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, Ama Dablam stands 22,349 ft.

Its name, Ama Dablam, translates to "Mother's Necklace" in Sherpa language, with "Ama" meaning mother and "Dablam" representing a pendant-like formation hanging from the mountain, resembling a traditional Sherpa double-pendant necklace containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.

The mountain serves as a cultural and spiritual symbol for the Sherpa people, who consider it sacred. Its elegant pyramid-shaped summit, with steep rock faces and ice-covered spires, presents a challenging ascent for experienced high-altitude mountaineers. (Related Article)

Situated near the Everest Base Camp, Ama Dablam offers an excellent training and acclimatization climb for those seeking to later attempt Mt. Everest or other 8,000-meter peaks.

Climbers often underestimate this beautiful peak, which presents a very technical, dangerous and difficult climb – especially now, during the cold fall climbing season in the Himalaya.

Nepal’s Department of Tourism granted 158 climbing permits for international climbers on Ama Dablam this season – second only to Manaslu’s 308 permits.

Ama Dablam / Dylan Shaw on Unsplash

Angela Bevavides reported in ExplorersWeb an unusual number of rescues taking place on Ama Dablam this season – particularly at Camp 3.

“Camp 3 is a small and exposed campsite used as a staging point for the summit push. Perched on a narrow ridge beneath the mountain’s iconic hanging glacier [the ‘Dablam’], it offers breathtaking views but poses challenges such as limited space, extreme weather, and avalanche risks. Reaching it requires climbing steep mixed rock and ice sections, making it suitable only for experienced mountaineers,” said Nga Tenji Sherpa of The Summit Force.

An Appealing Time of Year on Ama Dablam

The climbing season on this mountain lasts longer than other nearby Himalayan peaks. Further, the normal route provides fixed ropes from base camp to the summit (camps described below), and permits issued during the post-monsoon climbing season are less expensive than those issued in the spring.

Also, Ama Dablam only takes 3-4 weeks to climb – a far shorter period than the fourteen 8,000-meter giants. Such factors attract more climbers, and often less experienced climbers, which can lead to accidents and rescues.

Climbers can count on insurance to facilitate a helicopter rescue on Ama Dablam, which may further cloud one’s risk assessment as they move higher on the mountain. Such a helicopter rescue costs roughly $18,000. Of course, some climbers simply don’t have the skills to climb this challenging mountain.

“If people are insured and airlift is covered by their policy, then it’s an easy decision to make. If a helicopter at this altitude was not an option, or if it was not covered by insurance, maybe some climbers wouldn’t have [attempted to go] that far, or would have descended to Camp 2 by their own means…or maybe they’d have died.” – anonymous climber on Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam’s Southwest Ridge Route  

Base Camp ~15,092 feet                                                                                        Situated on a scenic plateau, Ama Dablam Base Camp is the hub for climbers preparing for the ascent. Climbers typically spend several days here to acclimatize and organize gear for the upper mountain.                                                                                                                               

Camp 1 ~ 18,700 feet The route from Base Camp to Camp 1 involves trekking over rocky moraine and grassy ridges.                                                                                                      

Camp 2 ~ 19,356 feet The climb to Camp 2 involves technical steep rock faces, exposed ridges, and fixed ropes. This small, precarious camp, situated beneath the iconic Dablam (a hanging glacier), exposes climbers to avalanche risk in a confined space. Climbers spend minimal time here, using it primarily as a transit point.                                                    

Camp 3 ~ 20,669 feet Camp 3, located on a snow-covered ridge, serves as the launching pad for summit attempts. The route from here involves steep snow and ice slopes.

Summit Push 22,349 feet The final climb from Camp 3 to the summit requires traversing steep ice gullies and exposed ridges.