Ambitious Climbing Teams Take on Winter Ascents of Himalayan Giants

The 'Winter Climbing' season technically begins on December 21st on the astronomical calendar, and climbing expeditions are preparing for several iconic peaks.

Annapurna / Karoly Buzas - on Unsplash

The true winter climbing season in the Himalayas beings on December 21st , and several teams have plans to attempt climbing some of the highest mountains in the world during this ominous period – the astronomical winter.

The Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world, stretches across Nepal, India, Bhutan, China, and Pakistan. The range is home to the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks - the highest mountains in the world known as ‘The Roof of the World’.

Several teams have their sights set on iconic Himalayan peaks including Annapurna, Ama Dablam, Manaslu and Mt. Everest.

Climbing season in the Himalaya typically takes place just twice per year when the Jetstream subsides above the Himalayan sky. This brief calm, known as the 'weather window', or ‘climbing window’, first occurs in the spring from March to early June annually. A second ‘weather window’ opens during the post-monsoon season, from early September through mid-December – the fall climbing season.

This fall’s climbing season, now winding down, has witnessed great success on several Himalayan peaks this year. The true ‘winter climbing season’ begins after the fall climbing teams have departed from the Himalaya.

Legendary climber Simone Mora will attempt to tackle Manaslu (26,781 ft.) this winter, as will many other ambitious climbers during the astronomical winter, which begins December 21st.

Angela Benavides recently reported on ExplorersWeb that Alex Txikon announced he will make a second attempt on Annapurna this winter with Italian climber Mattia Conte, Waldemar Kowalewski of Poland, Sajid Sadpara of Pakistan and the Seven Summit Trek’s sherpa team. The team will acclimatize on Ama Dablam (22,349 ft.) before traveling to the base camp of Annapurna prior to the winter calendar date.

Alex Txikon on Annapurna 2023 / Alex Txikon

Txikon attempted the same winter climb on Annapurna last year but called off the expedition after losing a critical cache of gear at Camp 3. Deflated, it appeared at the time that Txikon would not attempt the same climb again given the dangers of the avalanche-prone great couloir, located between Camps 2 and 3. “We have already taken too many risks,” Txikon admitted back then. “Perhaps I lack the hunger for the summit, having reached the summit of Manaslu a year ago.” But Txikon, and his team, will return to Annapurna.

Winter Ascents of Himalayan peaks present an additional set of challenges and dangers than the more traditional climbing seasons – namely colder than normal climbing conditions and less support.

Alex Txikon, a purist winter-season climber, made the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Sajid’s father, Ali Sadpara, and Simone Moro of Italy in 2016. Txikon summited Manaslu in January, 2023 with Chhepal Sherpa, Pasang Norbu, Gyalu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, Pemba Tashi, and the late Tenjen Lama, who died on Shisha Pangma in 2023.

Other expeditions will take on the winter challenge on Ama Dablam (22,349 ft.), Manaslu (26,781 ft.), and Mt. Everest (29,029 ft.). German Jost Kobusch’s plans to attempt Everest after the solstice. And legendary climber Moro of Italy plans to climb Manaslu alpine style during the winter season after December 21st with Nima Rinji Sherpa.

We will follow these ambitious climbers and their expeditions throughout the true winter climbing season – a period not for the faint of heart, but for the most skilled and adventurous mountaineers. (Related Article)