Babsi Zangerl - The First to Flash Big Wall on El Capitan's Freerider

Babsi Zangerl became the first rock climber to climb a route on the first try with prior knowledge of the route - 'Flashing' Freerider on El Capitan.

Babsi Zangerl / Jacopo Larcher

Flashing Freerider

Babsi Zangerl just ‘Flashed’ Freerider (VI, 5.13a) on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. The 36-year-old Austrian reached the top of the 3,000-foot granite wall without falling on the first attempt. Climbing the route without falling on the first attempt defines a ‘Flash’ – an incredible and rare feat.

In fact, Zangerl’s Flash, the first on El Capitan, places her in rarefied air as one of the best rock climbers in the world. Zangerl was supported by her long-time partner Jacopo Larcher, also an elite climber. Seiji Ishii recently reported in an Article for ExplorersWeb on the historic achievement.

In climbing, "Flashing" means successfully completing a route on your first try, but with some prior knowledge about the climb, while "Onsighting" means climbing a route on your first try with no prior knowledge about the route or its moves.

In 2012, British climber Leo Houlding nearly Onsighted Freerider - only taking a single fall. Zangerl’s Freerider Flash qualifies as the first “clean” climb on route. German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber were the first to climb Freerider in 1998. The route became famous when Alex Honnold successfully soloed Freerider (no rope), which was highlighted in the movie 

Zangerl on day six of her free ascent of El Cap’s El Corazón (5.13b) last year / CLIMBING - Powered by Outside

Larcher also attempted to Flash Freerider with Zangerl, but unfortunately fell on the first difficult “boulder problem” on the route. “I don’t have much to say, except that I went first on the boulder problem, didn’t see a key pin scar, and fell,” he said when asked how he felt about his attempt today.

Zangerl reflected on her achievment, “When we got to the summit, it felt unreal. I was happy for myself and, at the same time, sad for Jacopo. Climbing Onsight or Flash is like this; you only get one chance, which can feel even more brutal on a 1,000m big wall. But Jacopo took it in his stride, and his unwavering, 100% support all the way to the top was fundamental. It’s a true testament to his character. As I said before, I can’t thank him enough. It was certainly the biggest mental challenge I’ve ever faced in my climbing career.”

El Capitan / Hank Erdmann - Shutterstock

El Capitan – Iconic Routes

El Capitan, one of the most iconic rock formations in the world and renowned for its towering granite face and challenging routes, attracts climbers from around the world every year. Standing over 3,000 feet, the vast granite walls offer a variety of climbing experiences ranging from traditional aid-climbing to free-climbing. Among its numerous routes, several stand out for their difficulty, history, and the climbers and characters who conquered them.

Freerider, first climbed in 1998 by brothers, Thomas and Alexander Huber, presents another epic route on El Capitan. Freerider, essentially a variation of The Salathé Wall, offers more free-climbing potential and gained legendary status when Alex Honnold famously free-soloed the daunting route in 2017. The ascent was beautifully documented in Jimmy Chin’s Oscar-winning film Free Solo.

This route involves complex sections including the Boulder Problem and the Enduro Corner. The Salathé Wall,  another legendary route established in 1961 by Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost, combines classic aid and free climbing on sections including the Headwall and the Heart Ledges. (Related Article)

The Nose is a beast, and arguably the most famous route on El Capitan, first ascended in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore. The ascent took the adventurers 47 days over 18 months, marking an awesome achievement in climbing history. The Nose stands as an iconic benchmark for big-wall climbing, famously free-climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993, making her the first person to free-climb the daunting route in a single day. The highly technical route includes famous sections named the Great Roof and the Changing Corners.

The Dawn Wall, first climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015 and widely regarded as one of the hardest big-wall free climbs in the world, fascinates. The climb took the pair 19 days of near-continuous effort, ascending pitches with extremely challenging moves on thin cracks and tiny holds. This historic ascent showcased Caldwell and Jorgeson’s supreme skills and brought further attention to rock climbing and El Capitan.

The Heart, positioned on the southwest face of El Capitan, appears as a heart-shaped formation visible from the valley floor. The technically-demanding and exposed route, first climbed in 1970 by legendary climbers Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, and Chris Jones, helped to establish El Capitan’s rugged and attractive big-wall reputation.