Jost Kobusch Sets Winter-Climb Record on Mt. Everest's West Ridge

Jost Kobusch of Germany endured high winds, treacherous climbing, and high winds to achieve record-breaking success on Mt. Everest.

Mt. Everest - The West Ridge / Solviova Liudmyla

Winter Climbing Success on Mt. Everest

The official winter climbing season launched in the Himalayas with the Winter Solstice on December 21st. This marked the date that Jost Kobusch, of Germany, began his winter assault on Mt. Everest’s difficult Lho La Route – the West Ridge – Hornbein Couloir on Mt. Everest.

Kobusch took the extreme Lho La up the West Ridge as opposed to the more established Southeast Ridge route starting from Nepal, or the Northeast Ridge route, starting from Tibet. On his third attempt on this treacherous route, Kobusch found great success. He broke the record for a winter attempt by climbing to 7,537 meters (24,728 feet), surpassing the prior record of 7,500 meters (24,606 feet).

According to Angela Benavides in an Article for ExplorersWeb, Kobusch said he faced typical extreme winter conditions on the climb and descent, including frigid temperatures and high winds. Safely back to a desolate Everest base camp, a healthy-sounding and happy Kobusch talked about the climb and going the extra distance to break the record. “It was dark, but I progressed as much as possible, beyond the West Shoulder to the end of the snowy ridge and the beginning of a rocky section. It’s a few meters, but mentally, it was important for me.”

Jost Kobusch on Mt. Everest / Terragraphy

Climbing Alpine-Style in a Single Push

Kobusch traveled fast and light up the Lho La in an alpine-style charge from his Camp 1 in great climbing conditions. He reportedly did not set up a second camp on the route as he did in prior attempts, preferring to carry his tent and supplies during the ascent and the descent to base camp.

“In fact, the most challenging part of the ascent was to dig platforms for the tent when I stopped for a rest. That is why I had reduced my equipment to the very minimum. I carried nothing non-essential except maybe a bit of spare fuel,” Kobusch said.

On his final push, Kobusch cached his tent and other unneeded supplies at 6,800 meters (22,310 feet), and climbed to his highpoint of 7,537 meters (24,728 Feet) before returning to his tent for a night’s rest. Now safely back at base camp, Kobusch reflected on the historic winter ascent up the Lho La on the West Ridge of Mt. Everest, and spoke of the future. “I have learned a lot on this trip, and most importantly, I have reached the goal in my first push up the mountain. Right now, I really need a rest. There will be time to make decisions tomorrow.”

Jost Kobusch on the West Ridge of Everest / Daniel Hug/terragraphy

He also reflected on winter climbing solo - an impressive rarity in the world of mountaineering, which drives Kobusch. He wrote in his book Ich Oben Allein (“Me, Above and Solo”): ”Being solo also means being emotionally on your own. Because there is usually no one who can help you in an emergency. On your own, mistakes are taboo…[But] what scares others means freedom to me. I’m not responsible for anyone, and I alone deal with my faults. I can make any decision without having to justify myself to others. It’s all in my hands.”

Iconic Mt. Everest, the highest mountain in the world, stands 29,029 feet. Located in the Himalayas on the Nepal-Tibet border, its local names "Sagarmatha" in Nepali and "Chomolungma" in Tibetan, both translate to "Mother of the Universe". As the highest mountain in Asia, Everest represents the crown jewel of the coveted Seven Summits – the highest mountain on each of the seven continents. The mountain's summit remained elusive until 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa from Nepal, successfully reached the peak via the south side from Nepal (Southeast Ridge).

Climbing the Lho La Route on the West Ridge of Mount Everest

The Lho La Route begins from the Lho La Pass, located at approximately 19,685 feet, and progresses up the steep and exposed West Ridge of Mt. Everest. The pass itself serves as a natural border between Nepal and Tibet, and historically, served as a crucial trade route for the region. The climb up the West Ridge involves traversing intricate terrain, including ice cliffs, sharp ridges, and significant rock-climbing sections.

The West Ridge gained fame in 1963 when an American expedition led by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein successfully climbed it alpine-style. Their groundbreaking achievement marked the first ascent via the West Ridge and the first traverse of Everest, as they descended via the South Col. This daring feat remains one of the most remarkable climbs in Everest, and climbing, history. (Related Article)