Think Everest Is Deadly? The World’s Most Dangerous Peak Will Surprise You
Everest. K2. Denali.
All formidable peaks, but none of them bear the title of ‘World’s Most Deadly Mountain.’
Though climbers perish on all three peaks virtually every season, they have a low fatality rate.
The death rate on Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain, is about 1%. The number increases to 4% of those who summit, as most climbers perish on the descent.
K2, known as the 'savage mountain' in the Karakoram, is the world’s second-highest peak. It boasts a fatality rate of 13%, which is down dramatically in recent years (it previously hovered around 25%).
Denali, North America’s highest mountain, has a death rate of 9% for those who summit the peak.
But none of these death tolls compare to Annapurna I, the world’s 10th highest peak. Located in the Himalaya, Annapurna I is considered the deadliest mountain in the world. The death rate is 33%, though the number fluctuates with particularly successful--or deadly--seasons.
In an average year on Annapurna I, for every 3 people that summit, one does not return to base camp alive.
Why is Annapurna I So Deadly?
A collection of factors lead to the high death toll on the slopes of Annapurna I.
The first, and perhaps most impactful, is the lack of climbers that attempt the mountain.
Roughly 100-150 people summit Annapurna I each climbing season, with several hundred more attempting or providing support for those doing so.
For comparison, over 800 climbers summit Everest every year. Thousands more trek to basecamp to provide support for climbing parties, make their own attempt on the mountain, or simply enjoy being at the bottom of the tallest peak in the world.
The lack of climbers on Annapurna I’s slopes makes for increasing hazards, as there are less resources available to aid those in trouble. While Everest basecamp is a veritable metropolis of tents, Annapurna I’s is more of a village. There are fewer medical resources for the injured and less manpower to carry out dangerous rescue attempts.
Avalanches are also extremely common on Annapurna I. The entire Annapurna massif is comprised of loose rock and unreliable snow fields, drastically increasing the risk of avalanches. Notorious sections of loose rock make for unstable and technical climbing.
The combination of technical climbing, loose rock, and unstable snow makes it difficult to move quickly on the slopes of Annapurna I, increasing the risk of injury or even death for those who attempt to climb it.
Should You Climb Annapurna I?
Annapurna I is a massive undertaking, and many climbers dedicate their lives to the task of summiting. Even then, the odds of dying on its slopes are 1 in 3.
But for the most serious mountaineers–including those attempting to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks–it is an essential mountain.
Annapurna I tests all who dare to tread on its slopes, but is the achievement of a lifetime if one manages to summit… and survive.