Update on Three 'Winter Climb' Expeditions Underway in the Himalayas

The true winter climbing season begins on December 21 - the first day of the astronomical winter, and three Himalayan teams are making progress.

The Himalayas / Eleseus

Three teams are making progress on their winter climbing expeditions in the Himalayas. The true winter climbing season in the Himalayas beings on December 21st , and these three teams have plans to attempt climbing three of the highest mountains in the world during the astronomical winter. The Himalaya, the highest mountain range in the world, stretches across Nepal, India, Bhutan, China, and Pakistan. The range is home to the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks - the highest mountains in the world known as ‘The Roof of the World’.

Winter Ascents of Himalayan peaks present an additional set of challenges and dangers than the more traditional climbing seasons – namely colder than normal climbing conditions and less support. Alex Txikon, a purist winter-season climber, made the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Simone Moro of Italy in 2016. Txikon also summited Manaslu in January, 2023. Txikon returned to the Himalayas this winter for another attempt on Annapurna, after an acclimatization climb on Ama Dablam (22,349 ft.).

The Himalayas / Amit kg

German Jost Kobusch plans to attempt Everest after the solstice. And legendary climber Moro of Italy plans to climb Manaslu alpine style during the winter season after December 21st with Nima Rinji Sherpa – the youngest climber to climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. Here is an update on these ambitious climbers and their expeditions as we approach the true winter climbing season – a period not for the faint of heart, but for the most skilled and adventurous mountaineers. Angela Benavides just reported in an Article for ExplorersWeb on their progress.

Annapurna (26,545 ft.). Alex Txikon continues to work on a second attempt on Annapurna this winter with Italian climber Mattia Conte, Waldemar Kowalewski of Poland, Sajid Sadpara of Pakistan and the Seven Summit Trek’s sherpa team. The team will acclimatize on Ama Dablam (22,349 ft.) before traveling to the base camp of Annapurna prior to the December winter calendar date. Only a select group from Basque climber’s team will accompany him for the winter climb on Annapurna after the Ama Dablam expedition.

Mt. Everest (29,029 ft.). Jost Kobusch continues on his goal of a solo winter climb of Mt. Everest via the West Ridge. Kobusch has been climbing and acclimatizing in central Nepal and recently arrived in the Khumbu to stage his attempt. Per the requirements of a true winter climb, he will not go to Everest Base Camp until December 22nd. Kobusch noted that an actual summit may not be in the cards this season. He was on Everest in the winter of 2019-20, and 2021-22, and missed the 2023 winter season due to injury.

“In 2019-20 and 2021-22, [his two previous attempts] I spent time on the route working out the beta, learning a lot, and building skills. The goal will be to break the altitude record set by a French team in 1983. They reached 7,500m on the West Ridge in winter. I would love to go higher and explore the upper section.”

Manaslu (26,781 ft.). After climbing in Nepal most of November, Simone Mora is now back in Italy for some final training at home before heading to Manaslu for an alpine-style attempt with Nima Rinji Sherpa. The 18-year-old sherpa, the youngest to complete the 14×8,000’ers, is currently lecturing in Nepal and abroad, and preparing to arrive in Nepal with Mora for the winter attempt on Manaslu.

Climbing season in the Himalaya typically takes place just twice per year when the Jetstream subsides above the Himalayan sky. This brief calm, known as the 'weather window', or ‘climbing window’, first occurs in the spring from March to early June annually. A second ‘weather window’ opens during the post-monsoon season, from early September through mid-December – the fall climbing season. And now the brief, and extreme, winter climbing season is underway - updates to come.