A Rare Opening on Carstensz Pyramid Attracts International Climbers

Closed since 2019 due to regional unrest, Carsten Pyramid in Oceania recently reopened and climbers flocked to tag the elusive summit.

Carstensz Pyramid / Climbing The Seven Summits

A Brief Opening on Carstensz Pyramid

Two elite mountain guiding companies remained patient waiting for Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid, to reopen to international foreigners after a 5-year closure due to unrest in Western Papua. Madison Mountaineering and Climbing The Seven Summits (“CTSS”) just tagged the top of the mountain known as the 8th Summit – an addition, or intruder, to the fabled Seven Summits. Carstensz Pyramid entered the Seven Summits discussion when some climbers insisted that ‘Oceania’ represented a continent, not Australia – home of Kosciuszko. The Seven Summits are comprised of the highest mountain on each of the seven continents.

The conflict, between the government of Indonesia and the rebels of the ‘Free Papua’ coalition, presented untenable conditions for tourists, including climbers during this combustible period. Madsion mountaineering noted the closure, and their recent success. “Back in 2016, 2017 and 2018 our CP climbs operated on schedule. Then suddenly in 2019 the mountain closed and did not reopen until earlier this month. Fortunately, our team was able to quickly mobilize and take advantage of the opportunity, reaching the summit on October 27th in great conditions.” The mountain will close again after an approximate 30-day climbing window and will not reopen until February of 2025.

CTSS also found success on the Pyramid during this brief climbing opportunity. CTSS founder Mike Hamill joined his teammates to the top. “Huge congrats to Julie McKelvey on summiting Carstensz Pyramid yesterday! She finished her Seven Summits journey a while back with Kosciuszko, but it was a proud moment for her to tag the 8th as well. She was led by her guide Mark Postle, Indonesian guide Bui, and I tagged along for the ride,” exclaimed Hamill.

Success on Carstens Pyramid / Climbing The Seven Summits

Unfortunately, the mountain witnessed tragedy during the opening when two climbers on separate expeditions died while attempting Carstensz Pyramid. An Indonesian climber of Chinese descent died of an apparent heart attack just before the mountain re-opened to international climbers. The second death occurred when Dong Fei of China, a member of the Imagine Nepal team fell to his death.

Punchak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid)

Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) is the highest peak in Oceania and considered by many as one of the Seven Summits. Puncak Jaya is located in the Sudirman Range of the western central highlands of Papua Province, Indonesia. The mountain was first climbed in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, the renowned Austrian mountaineer and author of "Seven Years in Tibet."  Puncak Jaya's rugged summit is glaciated, making it one of the few places in the tropics where permanent ice exists. Many mountaineers seeking to complete the Seven Summits often include Carstensz Pyramid as an 8th summit for safe measure.

The Seven Summits Debate

The ‘Seven Summits’ comprised of the highest peak on each of the seven continents, includes Australia – so contended the late Dick Bass. Bass became the first person in history to climb all Seven Summits in 1985. But others casted doubt on Australia as a continent, sparking a debate that continues today. The debate centers around whether Australia or Australasia (Oceania) deserves the designation as a continent. Australasia includes Australia and two additional sub realms - New Zealand and the Australasian Islands, and East Indonesia. Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid), located in Indonesia, stands 16,024 feet.

The Carstensz climb presents a technical rock climb, featuring sharp limestone ridges and exposed sections that demand strong technical skill. Carstensz’s steep pitches and fixed rope segments provide variety and complexity for climbers, making it distinct from other Seven Summits’ peaks. Climbers often require local expertise and outfitters to increase their chances of success. The most common route, The Harrer’s Route, includes a 5+UIAA-degree climb on limestone.