Aconcagua, the Highest Mountain Outside of the Himalaya, Opens for Climbing

The highest mountain in both the western and southern hemispheres, Aconcagua, opens for trekking and climbing during austral summer.

Aconcagua / Gustavo Latorre - iStock by Getty Images

Aconcagua

Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres and the tallest peak outside of Asia, rises to 22,841 feet (6,961 meters). As the highest peak on the continent of South America, Aconcagua belongs to the renowned Seven Summits group - the highest peak on each of the seven continents.

This mountain attracts mountaineers from around the world seeking to climb the Seven Summits and to prepare for higher Himalayan expeditions. The annual climbing season during the southern hemisphere’s austral summer opened on November 1st and will remain open to trekkers and climbers through April 30th.

Located in the Andes mountain range of Argentina and near the border with Chile, Aconcagua receives environmental protection as part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park - a protected area known for its stunning alpine scenery.

Climbing Aconcagua presents many difficulties including the dangers of high altitude, unwelcoming rock, challenging glacier travel, and scree. The mixture of loose rock and uneven ice presents a 'one-step up' and 'two-steps back' frustrating ascent.

Legendary climber Phil Ershler, the first American to climb the North Face of Mt. Everest in 1984, once said about this Seven Summits’ stop, "Aconcagua looks best in your rearview mirror."

Climbing The Seven Summits on Aconcagua / Climbing The Seven Summits

The first person known to reach the 22,841-foot summit was Matthias Zurbriggen of Switzerland in 1897. In 1934, a Polish expedition successfully tackled a more perilous route on the northeastern side of Aconcagua, up a massive glacier that stretches nearly 2,000 vertical feet toward the summit. The ice sheet was named for that group: El Glaciar de los Polacos - The Polish Glacier.

Climbing Routes

Beyond the difficult Polish Glacier, Aconcagua offers multiple climbing routes, but the Normal Route, also known as the Northwest Route, remains the most popular. It begins at the Horcones Valley and takes climbers through base camps including Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas.

The ascent includes acclimatization at higher camps including Nido de Cóndores and Camp Colera before the final push to the summit. The summit push rises nearly 5,000 feet, making for an arduous final day of climbing. (Mike Hamill, founder of elite mountain guiding company, Climbing The Seven Summits, details climbing Aconcagua in the video below.)

Aconcagua experiences a wide range of weather conditions, from scorching heat in the lower elevations to extreme cold, high winds, and snow at higher altitudes. Weather can be unpredictable and change rapidly, posing challenges to climbers. 

The high altitude can lead to altitude sickness, making proper acclimatization essential. Climbers may experience symptoms like headaches, nausea, and fatigue, requiring a gradual ascent.

New Climbing Fees and Regulations

Aconcagua, situated in a protected national park, adheres to the Leave No Trace doctrine, which requires visitors to pack out all waste, and respect the fragile ecosystem.

Angela Benavides wrote an Article for ExplorersWeb describing the new fee structure and regulations that will affect climbers and trekkers this season. Not surprisingly, fees will increase this year, and the park will differentiate between day visits and multi-day climbing expeditions. Such fees will adjust depending on whether climbers hire local porters.

Fees for climbers from outside Latin America will range from $1,400 - $1,600 depending on the route. Climbers hiring a local outfitter will enjoy a fee discount of $550. For visitors from Latin America, fees will range from $1,050 - $1,300 when climbing independently and depending on the route. Their fee discount when accompanied by local support will range from $660 - $820. Agentines will enjoy further discounted rates. All fees derive from (i) starting point, (ii) length of stay: 7-days +, 3-days and, (iii) single day outings. The season on Aconcagua just began - make plans for your own South American adventure. (Related mountaineering Articles)

Aconcagua / Paulo Ricardo Fagundes - iStock by Getty Images