American Team Reaches the Top of a Previously Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan

Learn about the American team who just became the first group of climbers to summit Yashkuk Sar in Pakistan.

Karakoram Range / Unsplash

Located in Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan, the remote Yashkuk Sar summit has never seen a climber until now. With support from the American Alpine Club's "Cutting Edge Grant," three American climbers were able to accomplish this historic feat.

Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler, and August Franzen reached the secluded summit on Sunday, September 22, and plan to take two days for the descent to base camp, according to ExplorersWeb.

Yashkuk Sar has two peaks, both of which the trio climbed. Yashkuk Sar I reaches 6,667 meters, and Yashkuk II stands at 6,244 meters. Steadman, Winckler, and Franzen climbed from the Yashkuk Yaz Glacier on the north side.

In June 2024, ExplorersWeb explained that getting a permit for climbing in this location can be incredibly challenging. They stated, "In 2017, Tim Seers, James Lawson, and Will Smith tried to reach the Yashkuk Yaz Glacier, but their permit was denied at the last minute."

Attempting an unclimbed peak is a massive undertaking. The logistics of planning for such a trip can be difficult, as we have seen with the permit challenges. Additionally, making a first ascent inherently includes climbing into the unknown. This climb is a tremendous accomplishment by Steadman, Winckler, and Franzen.

The "Cutting Edge Grant" that supported the team is designed to assist experienced climbers chasing after large-scale mountaineering objectives. Awards tend to fall between $5,000 and $15,000, depending on the project.

"The objective was the product of a strong desire to climb in the Karakoram, especially a technical route on a mid-elevation peak in the less-traveled regions...," the American Alpine Cub released in Steadman's "Cutting Edge Grant" summary. "The team, which evolved over time due to injuries, now consists of Steadman, his primary climbing partner, Cody Winckler, who also lives in northern Wyoming with Steadman and shares his passion for winter climbing, and August Franzen, a resident on Valdez, Alaska who Steadman has yet to share a rope with but whom Steadman and Winckler have been wanting to climb with for a while."

Details of their climb have not been released yet as they are still on the mountain. More information will be provided to media sources upon their return.