Climbing Expeditions Entering Tibet to Climb Cho Oyu

Expeditions from around the world are entering Tibet to climb 8,000-meter peaks, including Cho Oyu, under strict rules.

Cho Oyu from Tibet / Furtenbach Adventures

Fall Climbing Season on the Himalayas

The Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world, were formed 50 million years ago. The brilliant peaks stretch across five countries: Nepal, India, Bhutan, China, and Pakistan. The range is home to the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks - the highest mountains on earth. Standing above them all, at 29,029 ft., is Mt. Everest. The Himalayas, are often referred to as the "Roof of the World.”

Climbing season in this rarefied air takes place twice a year during relative calm when the Jetstream moves from above the Himalaya. Typically, the height of this brief calm, known as the 'Weather Window', occurs beginning in March and declines in early June. This period allows for a 'Climbing Window', when climbers test the Death Zone to take their shot on the world's highest peaks. A second ‘Weather Window’ opens during the post-monsoon season –  from early September through December. This post-monsoon climbing season has begun. Learn more about the 'Climbing Window' here.

The Himalayas / Nikhil Bhat

Cho Oyu - the 6th Highest Mountain in the World

Climbing expeditions from around the world are on the move to the Himalayas to seize the opportunity during the fall climbing season, including Cho Oyu - the 6th highest mountain in the world. Cho You stands 26,864 feet, and attracts mountaineers seeking to enter the extreme world of 8,000-meter climbing. It is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, and is considered the most accessible of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. The standard route for climbing Cho Oyu is via the Northwest Ridge from the Tibetan side. Expeditions typically begin by driving from Kathmandu to the Tibetan Plateau, followed by an acclimatization period in the village of Tingri. Base camp sits at 18,700 feet. From base camp, climbers establish three higher camps at approximately 21,000 feet, 23,294 feet, and 24,442 feet before their final push to the summit at 26,864 feet.

At least five climbing teams have entered Tibet to climb Cho Oyu, including Madison Mountaineering, Furtenbach Adventures, Adventure Consultants, and China/Tibet Mountaineering Association (“CTMA”). Angela Benavides recently reported in her article Teams to Climb Cho Oyu, with some Strict Rules for ExplorersWeb, that CTMA team will be in charge of leading the way and fixing ropes up the route. Then, the expeditions’ support staff will pitch in and supply the three high-altitude camps on the normal route up the Northwest Ridge of the mountain.

Furtenbach Adventures Cho Oyu Expedition at the Chinese Border / Furtenbach Adventures

Strict Climbing Rules from Tibet

New climbing regulations issued by Tibet, and implemented on Mt. Everest last spring, will remain in effect on Cho Oyu this season. These rules include no solo climbing on the mountain, and a requirement to use supplementary oxygen above 23,000 ft. These measures were implemented to improve safety on 8,000-meter peaks. Climbers will make several rotations on their journey to the summit to acclimatize to the thin air. Supplemental Oxygen is critical in maintaining core body warmth, and providing the brain with additional oxygen at these altitudes to sustain judgement and sound decision-making. Solo climbers, and those opposed to using supplemental oxygen, will need to approach these 8,000 peaks from Nepal, on different routes.

Madison Mountaineering

Madison Mountaineering is an elite mountain guiding company led by Garret Madison. Garrett is among the most accomplished and premiere mountain climbers in the world, having reached the summit of Mt. Everest 14 times – most recently last spring. He has also reached the summits of K2, Lhotse, Nuptse, and all of the ‘7 Summits’. In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, and was successful again in 2018 , 2021 and, most recently last spring in 2024. Madison Mountaineering guides expeditions throughout the world, including the Seven Summits - the highest peak on each of the seven continents.