Expeditions Begin on the 6th and 8th Highest Mountains in the World

The climbing season has begun in the Himalayas, with Madison Mountaineering expeditions embarking on 8,000-meter peaks.

The Himalayas / Swapnil Vithaldas

The Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world, were formed 50 million years ago. The brilliant peaks stretch across five countries: Nepal, India, Bhutan, China, and Pakistan. The range is home to the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks - the highest mountains on earth. Standing above them all, at 29,029 ft., is Mt. Everest. The Himalayas, often referred to as the "Roof of the World," sit just below the Jet Stream most of the year, rendering them unclimbable and out of reach.

The Jet Stream is a powerful wind current that  thunders west-to-east over the Himalayas between the altitudes of 25,000 to 45,000 ft. Over the Himalaya, the Jet Stream's normal position changes in early spring. This change, the pre-monsoon season, creates low-pressure cycles that shift the Jet Stream to the north, and into Tibet. As it shifts, the Jet Stream weakens and brings relative calm to the Himalayan region with reduced wind speeds and more stable weather conditions.

The Himalayas / Sylwia Bartyzel

Typically, the height of this brief calm 'Weather Window' occurs beginning in March are declines in early June. The 'Weather Window' accommodates the 'Climbing Window', allowing climbers to enter the Death Zone to take their shot at the summits of the world's highest peaks. A second ‘Weather Window’ opens during the post-monsoon season – roughly from early September through December, meaning it's 'go-time' in the Himalayas.

Climbing expeditions from around the world are on the move to the Himalayans to seize this annual opportunity, including Madison Mountaineering. Madison Mountaineering is an elite mountain guiding company led by Garrett Madison. Garrett is among the most accomplished and premiere mountain climbers in the world, having reached the summit of Mt. Everest 14 times – most recently last spring. He has also reached the summits of K2, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the ‘Seven Summits’. In 2014, Garrett led the first ‘guided’ ascent of K2, and was successful again in 2018 , 2021 and, most recently, last spring in 2024.

Madison Mountaineering on K2 Summit / Madison Mountaineering Archive

Madison's teams recently departed for Manaslu, the 8th highest peak in the world, and Cho You, the 6th highest mountain in the world. Manaslu is located in the Mansiri Himal range of the Nepalese Himalayas, stands 26,781 ft., and is the 8th highest mountain in the world. Known as the "Mountain of the Spirit”. Climbing this 8,000-meter peak is reserved for highly experienced alpinists due to its technical difficulty, unpredictable weather, and extreme altitude. The most common route to the summit of Manaslu is the Northeast Face. The climb usually begins from the village of Samagaun, where climbers trek to the base camp situated at approximately 15,750 ft. From base camp, climbers navigate a series of higher camps: Camp 1 at approximately 18,700 ft.; Camp 2 at around 21,000 ft.; Camp 3 near 22,300 ft.; and Camp 4, or High Camp at 24,400 ft. From High Camp teams make the final summit push to 26,781 ft.

Manaslu / Sunil Tamang

Cho You stands 26,864 feet, and attracts mountaineers seeking to enter the extreme world of 8,000-meter climbing. It is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, and is considered the most accessible of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. The standard route for climbing Cho Oyu is via the Northwest Ridge from the Tibetan side. Expeditions typically begin by driving from Kathmandu to the Tibetan Plateau, followed by an acclimatization period in the village of Tingri. Base camp sits at 18,700 feet. From base camp, climbers establish three camps at approximately 21,000 ft.; 23,294 ft. and 24,442 before their summit push to 26,864 ft.

Several other 8,000 meter peaks will be attempted this fall climbing season. I will follow the Madison Mountaineering and Climbing The Seven Summits expeditions, and others, as they venture up these massive peaks preparing for the ‘weather window’ to open.