French Mountaineer Breaks Record Climbing All 14 Peaks of 8,000-Meter Plus

Alpinist Alasdair McKenzie climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in less than three years, becoming the youngest European to do so.

Alasdair McKenzie on the Summit of Shishapangma / @AlasdairMcKenzie - AlpineMag

Mountaineer Alasdair McKenzie from France just became the youngest European to summit all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks at the age of 20.

Only fourteen mountains in the world rise above 8,000-meters (26,247 feet). Known as the ‘Eight-Thousanders’, all 14 reside in the Himalayan and Karakorum mountain ranges in Asia and reach into the rarefied and dangerous strata known as the ‘Death Zone’.

McKenzie summited his first of the fourteen peaks at the age of 17 on Lhotse – the fourth highest mountain in the world. Less than three years later, on October 9, 2024, Alasdair stood on top of his final 8,000-meter peak, Shishapangma (26,335 feet), and made history. (Related Article on the 14 8,000-meter peaks)

Jocelyn Chavy caught up with the young climber and described the accomplishment in an Article for AlpineMag. McKenzie described the feeling of having summited his final Eight-Thousander. “

An incredible moment! When I reached the top, it was a relief to be on top of Shishapangma in the middle of Tibet. For me, that was the hardest part, because I’d been waiting for a year to be able to return to Tibet. The summit was really just an indescribable moment. The first things that come to mind are the sacrifices that have been made for this project. It was indescribable to be up there, and with Chiring, my Sherpa, to be able to enjoy it with him. For him, Shishapangma was his 13th 8,000er, for me it was my 14th. We just loved that moment. We stayed on the summit for over 20 minutes because it was so good.”

Alasdair McKenzie on Cho Oyu / @AlasdairMcKenzie - AlpineMag

Financing international mountaineering expeditions presents a challenge for most climbers, especially an alpinist as young as McKenzie. He found stable financial support the Princess Charlene of Monaco Foundation from the start of his pursuit of the world’s highest mountains.

“They liked the project precisely because of my youth, and the fact that I share the same values of inspiring young people to pursue their dreams, whether in sport or education. In the end, my age was an asset.”

In 2023, McKenzie climbed five of the 8,000-meter peaks – an amazing feat for any alpinist.

“Linking the five summits in eleven days was really difficult. You’re completely exhausted physically, but afterwards, in the mountains, whether it’s in the Alps or here, it’s the mind that takes over. That’s what it’s all about. You have to have a good mind. And then you have to know how to save your energy, sleep when you can sleep, eat a lot. Because not many mountaineers talk about that. But up there, you have to eat calories and calories. You always have to eat, always drink, try to recover as much as possible, try to sleep.”

Alasdair McKenzie / @AlasdairMcKenzie - AlpineMag

McKenzie will have some time for sleep now. He intends to spend a little time relaxing on the beach before focusing on his education to pursue graduate studies. However, McKenzie’s next big adventure will come soon as the mountains always call. “

All I can say is that my next big project is going to be much bigger, more ambitious, and it’ll be a first. In the mountains, of course.”

Climbing the ‘eight-thousanders’ constitutes the ultimate achievement in mountaineering. Legendary Italian climber, Reinhold Messner, became the first person to scale all of these prestigious mountains in 1986. His historic feat, chased by ambitious mountaineers like Alasdair McKenzie ever since, set the high-water mark in mountaineering success.