Legendary Mountain Climber and Author Chris Jones Dead at 84

Climbing pioneer and author Chris Jones, known for iconic alpine ascents and climbing literature, passes away at the age of 84.

Grand Teton National Park / National Park Service

The climbing community mourns the loss of Chris Jones, a legendary figure in alpinism and climbing literature, who passed away on September 17, 2024, at the age of 84. Jones' death marks the end of an era, as he was one of the most accomplished climbers of the golden age of alpinism.

Born in the United Kingdom on November 24, 1939, Jones immigrated to the United States in 1965. His legacy is not only in his established routes but also in his contributions to climbing literature and history.

During the 1960s and 1970s, Jones pushed the limits of big wall climbing, establishing bold new alpine routes in Canada, Wales, England, Yosemite, Peru, and Patagonia. His routes in Canada, in particular, are still considered classics today. Among his notable climbs was the 1968 ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy with Yvon Chouinard, Doug Tompkins, Dick Dorworth, and Lito Tejada-Flores. This expedition was documented in the film "Mountain of Storms" and led to the formation of iconic outdoor companies like The North Face, Patagonia, and Esprit.

In 1974, Jones and George Lowe made the first ascent of the 1,500-metre north face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies. This route remains one of the hardest alpine climbs ever and has not been repeated in its entirety. In reflecting on their North Twin ascent, George Lowe noted Jones' toughness and determination, qualities that his peers highly regarded.

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Jones was not only a climber but also a prolific author. His 1975 book, "Climbing in North America," was the first to document the history of alpinism in North America and guided many young climbers. His literary contributions have left an indelible mark on the sport and its history.

Jones' passing is a significant loss to the climbing community. His contributions to the sport, through his daring ascents and influential writings, will continue to inspire future generations of climbers. As we remember Chris Jones, we celebrate a life dedicated to pursuing adventure and documenting climbing history.