Nimsdai Purja and Elite Exped Set World Records Summitting Shishapangma

Nimsdai Purja and his team celebrated an incredible achievement while sharing a heartfelt tribute to their fallen loved ones.

L-R Mingma G and Nimsdai on the summit of Shishapangma. They both complete 14 peaks without supplementary oxygen. / Mandatory Credit - Nimsdai

Nepali-British mountaineer and former Gurkha Nimsdai Purja set out to accomplish an incredible feat on May 7th, 2022. He had his sights set on a world record, seeking to become the fastest person to scale the 14 peaks without supplementary oxygen.

Kanchenjunga was the first peak he conquered with the clock starting. From that point on, the race was one.

The next one that he looked to conquer was Mount Everest, which he did on May 27th, 2022 and May 16th, 2023. On May 28th, 2022, he would summit Mt. Lhose.

That would be it for the calendar year, but he picked up the pace in 2023. Between April 13th and October 2nd, he would summit 10 more mountains. Mt. K2 is on his ledger three times, as he also accomplished that feat on January 16th, 2021 and July 22nd, 2022 in addition to his July 28th, 2023 climb.

With only one mountain left, he wrapped this adventure up last week. On October 4th, 2024, he summited Shishapangma to complete the 14 peaks with no supplementary oxygen.

In total, it took him two years, four months and 28 days. That shattered the previous record which was held by Kim Chang-ho of South Korea, who did it in seven years, 10 months and six days.

On top of the world record for the fastest time to complete 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen, Purja also holds the record for combined times with supplemental oxygen. That stands at five years, five months and 12 days, starting on April 23rd, 2019 and finishing on October 4th, 2024.

It is hard to imagine anyone breaking that record soon, given his combined time is faster than the previous non-supplemental oxygen time alone. Nims also had some added motivation to get this climb done, as he was going it in memory of loved ones.

During a team climb on October 7th, 2023, Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa sadly died when avalanches his Shishapangma.

As shared by the release, “Four guiding companies were also caught up in the incident and sadly climbers Gina Marie and Tenjen Lama Sherpa were lost. Nims and Elite Exped successfully completed their rescue and repatriation in spring 2024 and Anna and Mingmar were reunited with their families.”

The final summit of Shishapangma was shared by Nims with Mingma G, a friend K2 winter teammate. Mingma G also completed his 14 peaks without added oxygen when the climb was complete.

The two paid tribute to their loved ones who perished previously.

“I know Anna would have told me to come back and finish the mountain we started together, to show the world resilience and determination and to give her and Mingmar a fitting tribute and legacy – these two new world records are dedicated to them, my family, and my dear mum and dad, who both sadly died after 2019.

“Thank you to everyone who has been on this journey with me since 2019 – I am truly grateful and humbled by your love and support. You are all forever part of these summits and successes.”

In addition to his incredible mountaineering feats, Nims has been doing some humanitarian work. He has been helping raise funds for those affected by the Thame and Kathmandu flooding through his Nimsdai Foundation.

The charitable foundation is working closely with others who are on the ground to get needed supplies to the people in need the most.