50-Years Ago Today, Eric Simonson's First Denali Summit

International Mountain Guides Co-Founder Eric Simonson celebrates the 50th Anniversary of climbing Denali for the first time.

Eric Simonson / International Mountain Guides

Eric Simonson and International Mountain Guides ("IMG")

50-years ago today, legendary American climber Eric Simonson reached the summit of Denali in the Alaska Range for the first time. Eric was 19 years old, and just beginning what would become a highly successful climbing career that spanned decades. His mountain guiding company, International Mountain Guides, remains a foremost authority on guiding on Denali, and mountains throughout the world.

“50 years ago today, I summited Denali for the first during our 41-day Denali-Traverse. I was 19 years old with about 20 summits of Mt. Rainier, and one year of guiding under my belt. Son Sheldon dropped us off at Kantishna and we crossed the tundra and carried loads up the Muldrow Glacier. We attempted the Taylor Spur, but ended up climbing Karstans Ridge. The entire expedition we were alone, until we got to Kahiltna Base Canp and met a polish team that gave us some food. Thanks to my fellow climbers Larry Heggerness (Team Leader), Jerry Hasfjord, Carl Fabiani, Tim Gage, Mike Reed, and Pat Lathrop. It’s amazing to remember what it was like to be young and strong and immortal, unwilling to take now for an answer.” - Eric Simonson

Denali

Denali, formerly known as Mount McKinley, is North America’s highest peak, standing 20,310 ft. in the remote and beautiful Alaska Range. As North America’s tallest mountain, Denali is a member of the iconic Seven Summits – the highest peak on each of the seven continents. The first verifiable ascent to Denali's summit was achieved on June 7, 1913, by climbers Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum., who climber Denali via the South Summit. In 1951, Bradford Washburn successfully summited the West Buttress route for the first time.

Denali / John Peters

About IMG

International Mountain Guides (“IMG”) is an elite mountain-guiding company headquartered at the base of iconic Mt. Rainier in Ashford, Washington. IMG was founded in 1986 by experienced Mt. Rainier guides Eric Simonson, George Dunn and Phil Ershler. Since then, IMG has led thousands of climbers throughout the world, from Mt. Rainier to every continent, including the 8,000-meter Himalayan peaks. Now owned and operated by Eric Simonson, IMG remains among the best guiding companies in the world, leading adventurers to the far reaches of the globe to climb the world’s most prominent mountains.

First American to Summit the North Face on Everest

Mt. Everest, in particular, is firmly planted in the DNA of IMG. Their histories are forever linked. In 1984, IMG Co-Founder Phil Ershler became the first American to conquer Mt. Everest via the extreme North Face route. On the expedition, led by legendary climber Lou Whittaker, Ershler endured the last 1,000 ft. of the climb alone, after climbing partner John Roskelley returned to high camp. Ershler faced unstable and extreme weather conditions while scaling the final 80-foot sheer rock face of the North Face to the summit - making history.

Ghosts on Everest 

IMG Co-Founder Eric Simonson played a critical role in the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expeditions. George Mallory, along with his climbing partner Andrew "Sandy" Irvine, disappeared during their attempt to summit Everest in 1924. It remains climbing’s most compelling mystery: Did the pair die while descending from the summit, or did they perish while ascending to the top?

The 1999 research expedition discovered Mallory's well remains at an elevation of approximately 26,755 ft. on the North Face. Simonson returned to Mt. Everest in 2001 to search for a camera and other artifacts. But a camera was never found -  consequently, the fateful mystery persists. 

IMG Success on Mt. Everest

IMG has established a strong guiding presence throughout the world. They were among the first to lead guides on several 8,000 meter peaks including Mt. Everest, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse. Over the past 30+ years, IMG has successfully guided over 800 summits on 8,000-meter peaks, 600 of which have been on Everest. IMG enjoyed considerable success on Mt. Everest in 2024, and I look forward to tracking future IMG expeditions.