K2 - The Savage Mountain

K2, 'The Mountain of Mountains', is the second highest peak in the world, and most deadly. Madison Mountaineering has begun their ascent of K2.

K2 / Terray Sylvester - Madison Mountaineering

K2

K2 stands 28,251 ft. making it the second highest mountain in the world, just 778 ft. shorter than Mt. Everest. K2 is also known as Mount Godwin-Austen, or Chhogori. Located in the Karakoram mountain range, it rises between Pakistan and China. K2 is known as the ‘Savage Mountain’ after George Bell, a member of the 1953 American Expedition exclaimed, "It's a savage mountain that tries to kill you." Of the five highest mountains in the world, K2 is the deadliest; approximately one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit. K2 has also been called The King of Mountains, The Mountaineers' Mountain, and The Mountain of Mountains – the name which prominent Italian climber Reinhold Messner titled his book about K2.

K2: Background

K2 was first surveyed in 1856 by Colonel T.G. Montgomerie, who named it as the second peak (K2) in the Karakoram range. The mountain's name, Mount Godwin-Austen, honors Henry Godwin-Austen, an early explorer of the region. The first successful summit of K2 was on July 31, 1954, by an Italian team led by Ardito Desio. Desio was joined by teammates Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni on the summit, marking a historic moment in mountaineering history.

The Abruzzi Spur Route
The most common route on K2 is the Abruzzi Spur, named after the Duke of Abruzzi who attempted the climb in 1909. The Abruzzi Spur’s base camp sits at approximately 16,896 ft., and ascends through four higher camps:
• Camp 1 (20,013 ft.) The first 2,000 ft. of climbing passes through mixed terrain with rock, ice, and snow.
• Camp 2 (21,982 ft.) On this segment, climbers navigate the House’s Chimney, an extremely steep rock section that requires technical climbing skills.
• Camp 3 (23,950 ft.) This camp sits on a precarious narrow ledge, subject to rockfall and avalanches.
• Camp 4 (24,934 ft.) The final camp before the summit bid is located at the base of the Bottleneck, a narrow couloir with dangerous seracs hanging overhead.

The Bottleneck is the most threatening section of the climb, as climbers are exposed to the risk of serac collapse and avalanche. The final ascent from Camp 4 to the summit requires navigating this dangerous passage, making K2 one of the most demanding and savage climbs in the world. Beyond these inherent obstacles, K2's weather is exceptionally harsh, with frequent and unpredictable storms and high winds that often strike without warning. The narrow window to tag the top of K2 usually occurs in late July and early August.

High Fatality Rate – More Attempts

K2 has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8,000-meter peaks. The combination of technical difficulty, unpredictable weather, and objective hazards such as avalanches and rockfall contribute to this high fatality rate. In recent years, K2 has attracted more attention from climbers worldwide, as advancements in gear, improved climbing techniques, and better weather forecasting has slightly improved success rates. For example, in 2021, a team of Nepali climbers achieved the first winter ascent of K2, marking a significant milestone in mountaineering history.

Madison Mountaineering Moving on K2

Madison Mountaineering is an elite mountain guiding company led by Garret Madison. Garrett is among the most accomplished and premiere mountain climbers in the world. Among his numerous mountaineering feats, Garrett has reached the summit of Mt. Everest 14 times. In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, and was successful again in 2018 and 2021. Garrett and his K2 team are back on the ‘Savage Mountain’ again this year. They also have a team attempting an ‘unclimbed’ mountain near K2. Here is the most recent dispatch from Garrett:

“Our teams on K2 and ‘Unclimbed Peak’ are making great progress! Our K2 team climbed from Advanced Base Camp today up to Camp 1 where they are settled into their tents for the night. Meanwhile, our Unclimbed team is moving up the route with our Sherpa team fixing lines towards the summit. The team plans to take a rest day tomorrow, before their summit push the following day!”

K2 - Madison Mountaineering / Terray Sylvester