Madison Mountaineering K2 Team Making Move to the Summit

Garrett Madison's K2 Team has been waiting out difficult weather on K2, now a favorable weather window is opening and the team is on the move.

K2 - Abruzzi Spur Route / Wikimedia

Madison Mountaineering on the Move on K2

The Madison Mountaineering K2 Team, led by Garrett Madison, is on the move making their summit bid on treacherous K2, 28,251 ft.. The team has fought brutal weather, including high winds on the upper mountain, for several weeks. A ‘weather window’ appears to be opening, and the team is in high spirits hoping it will last long enough to tag the top of the second highest mountain in the world. Garrett just reported from Camp 1 on ‘The Mountain of Mountains’: “K2 rises up from the valley floor, steep from top to bottom. The team spent the night in advanced base camp before climbing to Camp 1 at 19,900 ft. After a great day on the mountain, the team has crawled into their tents for the night, excited to continue up the mountain tomorrow!” (Dispatch – Garrett Madison 7/25/24)

Elite Climber Garrett Madison / Madison Mountaineering

Madison Mountaineering Route on K2

The Madison Mountaineering Team is climbing via the Abruzzi Spur – the most common route on this deadly mountain. K2 has one of the highest fatality rates among the highest mountains in the world, comprised of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in the Himalayas. Approximately one in four climbers who attempt to climb K2 do not return, with the fatality rate estimated around 25%, K2 is known as the ‘Savage Mountain’.

But the awesome challenge of climbing K2 inspires the most experienced climbers. Elite alpinist Benny Lieber, a team leader on the Madison Mountaineering K2 Team recently checked in: “K2 is a magnificent peak – one that can inspire awe and excitement in even the most seasoned climbers. Immediately you understand the obsession, the difficulty, and the relentless efforts of years past to climb this unbelievable mountain”

Elite Alpinist Barry Lieber / Madison Mountaineering

The Abruzzi Spur’s base camp sits at approximately 16,896 ft., and ascends through four higher camps. The team has acclimatized for many weeks by working up the mountain to the first two camps, while always returning to base camp to rest and wait for a solid weather window. They appear to have the appropriate weather window now, and will go as quickly as possible from Camp 1 to the summit in the coming days.

• Camp 1 (19,900 ft.): Base camp to Camp 1passes through mixed terrain with rock, ice, and snow.

• Camp 2 (21,982 ft.): On this segment, climbers navigate the House’s Chimney, an extremely steep rock section that requires technical climbing skills.

• Camp 3 (23,950 ft.): This camp sits on a precarious narrow ledge, subject to rockfall and avalanches.

• Camp 4 (24,934 ft.): The final camp before the summit bid is located at the base of the Bottleneck, a narrow couloir with dangerous seracs hanging overhead.

K2 - The Bottleneck

The Bottleneck stands in the path to K2’s summit, where climbers are exposed to overhanging seracs, ice fall and powerful avalanches. The final ascent from Camp 4 to K2’s summit is approximately 3,350 of extremely technical and dangerous climbing. More to come as Garrett, Benny, and the rest of the Madison Mountaineering K2 Team leave Camp 1 to go higher on the Savage Mountain. (Video of the hazardous 'Bottleneck')

Madison Mountaineering

Madison Mountaineering is a world-class mountaineering company led by Garret Madison. Madison is among the most elite and accomplished mountain climbers in the world, having summited Mt. Everest 14 times among many other achievements. Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascents of K2 in 2014, 2018 and 2021. Safe climbing to Garrett and the team as they move up K2.