Madison Mountaineering on Broad Peak Preparing for K2

Madison Mountaineering, led by Garrett Madison, returns to the Himalayas to climb Broad Peak in preparation to attempt formidable K2.

Broad Peak / Kogo

Madison Mountaineering

Madison Mountaineering is an elite mountain guiding company led by Garret Madison. Garrett is among the most accomplished and premiere mountain climbers in the world. Among his numerous mountaineering feats, Garrett has reached the summit of Mt. Everest 14 times, and personally led 80+ climbers to the summit of the world’s highest mountain since 2009 - more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the ‘Everest- Lhotse’ combination, reaching the summit of these two 8,000-meter peaks in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘Doubleheader’ combination in 2013, 2018, 2022, and 2023.

K2 and The Seven Summits

In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas in 2014, again in 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas, and most recently in 2021, with a summit team of 21. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘Seven Summits’ expeditions on Mt. Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Aconcagua, and Kilimanjaro. He also finds and conquers many first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas.

Garrett and his Broad Peak/ K2 team (Madison Mountaineering Karakorum Expedition) have returned to the Himalayas again this year. They are currently preparing to climb Broad Peak, one the 14 8,000-meter peaks. Climbing Broad Peak will allow the climbing team to acclimatize to high altitude over a period of several weeks, before their summit bid. This preparation will suite them well when they leave Broad Peak and venture to the second highest peak in the world, K2. K2 represents a more daunting and dangerous challenge, which I will cover when that expedition begins.

K2 / Daniel Born

Broad Peak

Broad Peak: Broad Peak, or K3, stands 26,414 ft. and is the 12th highest mountain in the world. It is located between Pakistan and China in the Karakoram range, and is part of the same massif which includes K2, its more famous and difficult neighbor to the southeast. The name "Broad Peak" was introduced by British explorer Martin Conway in 1892 because the mountain's extensive summit ridge.

Historical Ascent: Broad Peak was first climbed on June 9, 1957, by an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. Team members included Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller, and Kurt Diemberger. This successful ascent was notable for its style, being achieved without supplemental oxygen and high-altitude porters. Climbing without supplemental oxygen and support was rare at that time, and marked a significant achievement in mountaineering history.

Routes and Difficulty: The standard route to the summit is the West Ridge, considered the most straight-forward route. The route involves a long and challenging climb over glaciers, snowfields, and rocky sections. Base camp is established at approximately 4,900 meters, Camp 1 is typically established at 5,700 meters, Camp 2 at 6,400 meters, and Camp 3 at 7,200 meters. The summit bid from the high-camp requires navigating through mixed terrain, with the last stretch being particularly demanding due to sheer exposure and extreme altitude.

Challenges: Climbers face numerous challenges on Broad Peak. The high altitude, like any 8,000-meter peak, presents the risks of altitude sickness, unpredictable and hazardous weather and extreme cold. The summit ridge, on the final push, is notorious for its technical difficulty and exposure, requiring climbers to have strong mountaineering skills and experience.

Permits and Logistics: Climbing Broad Peak requires a permit from the Pakistani government, as most expeditions begin from the Pakistani side. Climbers begin their expeditions in Islamabad before trekking to base camp via the Baltoro Glacier. Expeditions typically last several weeks to allow for acclimatization. Broad Peak gains much attention from mountaineers attempting to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks - a rare and extraordinary accomplishment.

Madison Mountaineering Karakorum Expedition / Madison Mountaineering Terray Sylvester