Madison Mountaineering Preparing for Summit Push on K2

Garrett Madison, leader of the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition, provides an update on the team's progress as they prepare for a summit bid.

K2 - Madison Mountaineering / Terray Sylvester

Madison Mountaineering on K2

Madison Mountaineering is preparing for their summit push on K2, the second highest peak in the world standing 28,251 ft. Located in the Karakoram range, K2 rises between Pakistan and China. K2 is known as the ‘Savage Mountain’ and is the deadliest mountain in the world; approximately one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit. K2 has also been called The King of Mountains, The Mountaineers' Mountain, and The Mountain of Mountains.

The Madison Mountaineering K2 team is currently facing extremely windy conditions high on the mountain, which is forcing the team to wait for an opportunity at Base Camp, 16,300 ft. They are hoping that a ‘weather window’ of relative calm conditions opens soon so they can embark on the final push to the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, reports that the team is in great spirits in the following dispatch from K2:

“Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition Team. (8611m/28,251ft). We finished our Unclimbed Peak project, climbing very high on a beautiful new line on a sub-peak nearby K2, almost 7,000 meters. (We) had epic views up there and just a great experience on a beautiful mountain – great day out! The last few days we have been in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) getting ready for our K2 summit push. It’s been windy up high, so we have been waiting in base camp and staying busy with ice climbing, day hikes, and explorations around the area, keeping our fitness up and our spirits up! Everyone is doing well here, and we are just getting ready to go for a summit push once the weather looks good, maybe in a week or so. All is well here in K2 base camp and we will check in soon!”

Madison Mountaineering - K2 Basecamp / Terray Sylvester

The Abruzzi Spur Route

The Madison Mountaineering team is climbing the Abruzzi Spur Route on K2, named after the Duke of Abruzzi who attempted the climb in 1909. When Garrett's team leaves base camp, they will embark on the following route:
• Camp 1 (20,013 ft.): The first 2,000 ft. of climbing passes through mixed terrain with rock, ice, and snow.
• Camp 2 (21,982 ft.): On this segment, climbers navigate the House’s Chimney, an extremely steep rock section that requires technical climbing skills.
• Camp 3 (23,950 ft.): This camp sits on a precarious narrow ledge, subject to rockfall and avalanches.
• Camp 4 (24,934 ft.): The final camp before the summit bid is located at the base of the Bottleneck, a narrow couloir with dangerous seracs hanging overhead.

The Bottleneck is the most threatening section of the climb, as climbers are exposed to dangerous seracs collapse and avalanches. The final ascent from Camp 4 to the summit requires navigating this dangerous passage. Beyond these inherent obstacles, K2's weather is exceptionally harsh, with frequent and unpredictable storms and high winds that often strike without warning. The narrow window that Madison Mountaineering is waiting for, usually occurs in late July to early August.

Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition / Terray Sylvester

The History of K2

K2 was first surveyed in 1856 by Colonel T.G. Montgomerie, who named it as the second peak (K2) in the Karakoram range. The mountain's name, Mount Godwin-Austen, honors Henry Godwin-Austen, an early explorer of the region. The first successful summit of K2 was on July 31, 1954, by an Italian team led by Ardito Desio. Desio was joined by teammates Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni on the summit, marking a historic moment in mountaineering history.

Madison Mountaineering

Madison Mountaineering is an elite mountaineering guide company led by Garret Madison. They lead guided climbs throughout the world including the Seven Summits, many 8,000-meter peaks including Mt. Everest and K2, and other impressive mountains. Garrett Madison has summited Everest 14 times, and has successfully guided over 80 climbers to the top of the world. He was the first to guide climbers to the summit of K2, which he has summited 3 times - the most by an American.