Tragic Deaths on the South Face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites

Experience climbers Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin tragically fell to their deaths on the south face of the Marmolada via Don Quixote.

Francesco Favilli repeating 'Invisibilis' on Marmolada, summer 2023 / Mirco Grasso

Tragedy in the Dolomites

The south face of the Marmolada via the Don Quixote route presents a compelling and historic climbing challenge. The Marmolada, located in the Dolomites of northern Italy, is the highest peak in the range, towering 10,968 ft. above sea-level. Its south face, a striking vertical wall of brilliant limestone, boasts massive size and multiple technical climbing routes. The Don Quixote route, one of the most iconic and accessible for experienced climbers, attracts mountaineers from around the world, and was first ascended in 1979 by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl. This classic line is renowned for its compelling mix of history, technical climbing, and breathtaking views. Tragically, two experienced climbers recently fell to their deaths from near the top of Don Quixote.

Nicholas Hobley reported in Planet Mountain that Francesco Favilli, 44, and Filippo Zanin, 36, were climbing the south face of the Marmolada via Don Quixote pass on Sept. 3 when they suddenly fell to their deaths. Their bodies were later recovered by members of the Mountain Rescue team. Favilli and Zanin both worked for Scarpa, and elite Italian shoe manufacturing company focused on outdoor and climbing footware. Favilli served as Brand Manager of the mountaineering division, while Zanin worked in marketing. The company’s president, Sandro Parisotto, said that Favilli and Zanin’s deaths have left a tremendous void at Scarpa and spoke to the pair’s brotherly bond and their shared love for mountaineering. Both were extremely experienced and competent climbers in a variety of disciplines, including high-mountain alpinism, ski mountaineering, and multi-pitch routes. “For both of them, the mountains, in all their various facets, represented a sort of life compass. Today it feels like it has lost its north.” (Planet Mountain)

The first ascent of 'Mixte Feeling' in Civetta, Dolomites (Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier 15-16/01/2024) / Mathieu Maynadier archive

The Don Quixote Route in the Dolomites

Don Quixote, rated around 5.10a (UIAA VI) in difficulty, is a 750-meter, 16-pitch climb that offers a mixture of technical face climbing, crack systems, and some slabby sections. The ection of climbing demands a high level of fitness, rock climbing skills, comfort with exposure, and climbing sharp delicate features. The approach to the south face starts from the village of Malga Ciapela, where a series of trails lead up toward the base of the Marmolada’s immense limestone wall. This hike takes a couple of hours and requires traversing alpine terrain.

Don Quixote’s first few pitches are a warm-up, featuring moderate climbing, gradually increasing in difficulty as you move higher. As the route progresses, climbers encounter more technical pitches with steeper sections that require precise footwork and solid hand placements. One of the cruxes of the route comes around the middle, where climbers must navigate a steeper, more exposed face. A combination of traditional protection and bolts along the route adds some security, but the climb remains serious and requires solid gear placement skills. As climbers near the top, the terrain begins to ease, and they can fully enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, especially the stunning views of the Dolomites' jagged skyline.