Two Climbers Die During Brief Climbing Period on Carstensz Pyramid

Closed due to regional turmoil and war since 2019, Carstensz Pyramid recently opened to foreigners eager to climb the controversial peak.

The Tyrolean traverse near the summit of Carstensz Pyramid / Summitcarstensz

Carstensz Pyramid Open to Climbing

Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid, recently opened for climbing after a 5-year closure due to unrest in Western Papua. The conflict, between the government of Indonesia and the rebels of the ‘Free Papua’ coalition, presented untenable conditions for tourists, including climbers, during this combustible period. The brief climbing opportunity, which will last approximately 30-days, mobilized mountaineers from around the world eager to notch a checkmark on their Seven Summits’ dreams. (Related Article) But a series of tragedies threatens to derail the short season in the ravaged region. Climbing Carstenz, a one full-day endeavor, will heat up for the next several weeks.

Punchak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid)

Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) is the highest peak in Oceania,  and considered by many as one of the Seven Summits. Puncak Jaya is located in the Sudirman Range of the western central highlands of Papua Province, Indonesia. The mountain was first climbed in 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, the renowned Austrian mountaineer and author of "Seven Years in Tibet."  Puncak Jaya's rugged summit is glaciated, making it one of the few places in the tropics where permanent ice exists. These glaciers, created during the last ice age, serve as a vital water source for the surrounding ecosystems. Many mountaineers seeking to complete the Seven Summits often include Carstensz Pyramid as an eighth summit for safe measure.

The Seven Summits Debate

The ‘Seven Summits’ comprised of the highest peak on each of the seven continents, includes Australia – so contended the late Dick Bass. Bass became the first person in history to climb all Seven Summits in 1985. But others casted doubt on Australia as a continent, and a debate has ensued ever since. The debate centers around whether Australia or Australasia (Oceania) deserves the designation as a continent. Australasia includes Australia and two additional subrealms - New Zealand and the Australasian Islands, and East Indonesia. Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid), located in Indonesia, stands 16,024 feet. The debate continues,

The Carstensz climb presents a technical rock climb, featuring sharp limestone ridges and exposed sections that demand strong technical skill. Carstensz’s steep pitches and fixed rope segments provide variety and complexity for climbers, making it distinct from other Seven Summits’ peaks. Climbers often require local expertise and outfitters to increase their chances of success. The most common route, The Harrer’s Route, includes a 5+UIAA-degree climb on limestone.

Climbing Carstensz Pyramid / Climbing The 7 Summits

Two Recent Deaths on Carstensz

Angela Benavides recently reported in an article for ExplorersWeb that two climbers have already died during this brief climbing window. An Indonesian climber of Chinese descent died of an apparent heart attack just before the mountain re-opened to international climbers. The second death occurred when Dong Fei of China, a member of the Imagine Nepal team, fell to his death. Dong Fei had recently summited 22,349 ft. Himalayan peak Ama Dablam.

“There were three ropes in a rappel section, and one was cut off. For some reason, it looks like he caught a shorter rope,” sources from Imagine Nepal said. “Later, we asked the local guide, and he said he helped Mr. Dong descend with an  (a friction knot used from a belay to control the descent of another climber). But he Dong refused to use a  and chose to go down by just holding the rope.”