The Day I Met the White Bear: A Grizzly Encounter in Alaska

An encounter with a white grizzly bear that changed my understanding of nature.

Completely unbothered and unhurried by me and my camera. / photo by Ken Baldwin

While guiding in Alaska, it wasn't unusual to encounter up to 15 grizzly bears in a day. I guided on a river that was a spawning ground for sockeye salmon. Millions of salmon would return every summer, and because of this, a large population of Alaskan brown bears concentrated along the riverbanks. Seeing them fish for salmon was an incredible spectacle, their power and size on full display.

"Brown and grizzly bears are classified as the same species even though there are notable differences between them. “Brown bears” typically live along the southern coast of the state where they have access to seasonally abundant spawning salmon. This allows them to grow larger and live in higher densities than their “grizzly” cousins. " Alaska DF&G / photo by Ken Baldwin

Fly Fishing Amongst the Bears

My job was to take fly fishing anglers upriver to fish for salmon, trout, and char. It was common to share productive pools with bears, so I'd carry my camera with me (plus a large-caliber firearm). These are majestic, beautiful, and sometimes playful animals that most of the time didn't pose a threat...most of the time.

photo by Ken Baldwin

They Don't Teach This in College

There were a few occasions when a "hangry" bear would show up and not want to share the fishing hole. This made things interesting. Sometimes the bear would express its displeasure with a growl and a "woof," other times you could just see it in its demeanor, similar to a dog you know not to pet. Every so often, there would even be a false charge to get the point across. It took years to become familiar enough with their behavior to read a bear's intent, and still, I knew it wasn't an exact science.

This bear was being playful with a bush on the side of the river. / photo by Ken Baldwin

A Day off From Guiding

If I were to count how many encounters I've had with grizzly bears over a 20-year period, it would reach into the thousands. But one encounter that happened towards the end of my career as a guide stands out above all the rest.

The "White" Bear

The encounter was brief; it lasted for one afternoon. I never saw the bear again in the days that followed, but the meeting has stayed with me ever since.

The bear wasn't only unique in how it looked, but also in how it behaved. I positioned myself across from it for most of the afternoon as it sat in a deep pool and fed on salmon. I've been around wild animals long enough to know that you don't want to stare at it, especially a predator. Looking into its eyes can signal a challenge. This one felt different. After a few hours in the bear's presence, my guard came down, and I felt comfortable making eye contact.

Making eye contact. / photo by Ken Baldwin

A Glimpse into the Bear's World

I don't recommend doing this, but this was not a typical encounter. As it sat in the pool eating salmon, the bear would casually look at me, acknowledging that it knew I was there. Our eyes did connect a few times, and in the pause, I could see intelligence and depth. I felt like I had connected to as pure and wild a beast as there is, and we were okay with each other.

Granted an Audience

I cringe when I witness people seeing wild animals through Disney colored glasses. I know firsthand how brutal and violent nature can be. This encounter was different. It felt like I was allowed into a different world, one where the bear and I existed on the same level. I wasn't its equal; I wasn't about to go up and try to pet it. But because I kept some distance and respected its space, the bear accepted my presence and allowed me to see it with its guard down. It felt like a gift that has changed my relationship with nature. I don't know how I've changed, I just know I have. KB

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A side note: When I left that day, I feared for the bear. My concern was that because its fur was white, it would stand out and make it an easy target for hunters. When I got back to camp and reviewed my photos, I studied the one above, and was somewhat relieved. The bear's fur is an exact match to the color of the bleached-out wood that piles up on the riverbank. A natural camo pattern that blends in. Nature is amazing, and within all its chaos, there's reason. / photo by Ken Baldwin

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